Davines Colour Theory Workshop

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with Kathy 21st October 2015

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101 Colours & 5 Activators

Mask colour can be used as a semi permanent colour

There is no need to add base to colour white hair

CONTAINS:

Hydrolyzed Milk proteins

Hydrates and restructures (lactic acid, mineral salts, amino acids and oligopeptides).

VEGETABLE LIPID COMPONENTS

compact the cuticle and enhance the shine and comb-abilty

and protect hair from further UV damage.

Conditioning agent.

Basic cream formulation.

Small colour less pigments.

 

Mask has been reformulated and now performs even better in 3 aspects:

CreamProtection and Shine, summarized through the CPS symbol.

Cream: the emulsifying system of Mask has been modified with the introduction of ingredients with a higher emulsifying ability. This has allowed us to obtain a more creamy formula that mixes more easily with the activators. Consequently, the hair feels softer and silkier.

Protection: we achieved the perfect balance between hydrating, smoothing and conditioning substances to guarantee a higher level of protection to the structure of the hair during the colour application.

Shine: thanks to the new formula, the hair is even more shiny after the colour application.

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We must understand colour in order to colour hair successfully.

Counteracting colours are colours that can neutralise each other. Which colours can neutralise each other?

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AMMONIA

Mask (0,5% – 3%):

000 + 11 series = 3%

12 series = 4.8%

Ammonia is calibrated to the minimum needed.

 

HYDROGEN PERIOXIDE

Stabilized.

Oxidizes intermediate molecules.

Lightens natural melanin.

pH.3.5

 

ACTIVATION SOURCE ACTIVATORS

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MASK SEMI/DEMIApply to washed towel dried hair Mask + 7 vol. 1 : 2 Natural Hair15 minutes

Grey Hair

20 minutes

PERMANENTTone on Tone

Darker Level

Lightening Level 1

Or Grey Coverage

Mask + 10 vol.Mask + 20 vol. 1 : 1 ½1 : 1 ½ Normal Hair30 minutes

30 – 40 minutes

LIGHTENING2 Levels

3 Levels

4 Levels

Mask + 30 vol.Mask + 40 vol.

Mask + 000 + 40vol.

1 : 1 ½1 : 1 ½

1 : 1 ½

35 – 45 minutes45 – 60 minutes

45 – 60 minutes

Lightening 4 Levels with ExtraliftLightening 5 Levels with Extralift Extralift + 40 vol.Extralift + 000 + 40 vol. 1 : 21 : 2 45 -50 minutes45 – 60 minutes
NOTE: When using 000 (Hyper Blonde Booster) always mix with equal amounts of colour e.g. 10g Extralift + 10g 000 + 40g 40 vol. Activation Source.
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MASK MIXING RATIOS

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COLOUR LEVEL AND TONALITY

First number:

indicates colour level (dark or light)

6,14

 

Second number:

indicates primary reflect

,14

 

Third number

indicates  secondary reflect

,14

 

MASK TONAL SERIES

, 0 = Natural Cold/Intense
,1 = Ash Green
,2 = Irisè Violet & Blue
,3 = Golden Yellow
,4 = Copper Yellow & Red
,5 = Mahogany Violet & Red
,6 = Red Red
,7 = Beige Green & Yellow

 

MASK TONALITY

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000 BOOSTER

does not contain pigments

to be used only on natural hair

achieves one extra level of lift

Ammonia: 3.0%

 

Directions:

Mixing proportions:

0,5  part    +     0,5  part   +       1,5 part  .

Mask             Booster          Act. 40 vol.

0,5 part       +    0,5 part    +       2 parts   .

Extralift             Booster         Act. 40 vol.

 

MASK INTENSIFIERS

Intensifiers contain a high concentration of pigment and are designed to be added to Mask colour to intensify or personalise reflects.

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It is not necessary to add extra Activation Source when they are used and the following table indicates how much to use according to the level of colour chosen.

MASK INTENSE – MIXING RATIO

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DIAGNOSIS: HOW TO DO

Desired color

Natural level

Residual pigments

Cosmetic pigments

White hair percentage

Hair condition

Condition of Scalp

Porosity and hair structure

Hair typology

Colour selection and activator

Application

Processing time

 

VIRGIN APPLICATION

What you have:

natural level 5

What you want:

desired level 7.4

Directions:

 

On fine hair

Apply 7.4 + act. 30 vol. (1 +1,5)

on lengths and ends and then on new growth.

Processing time 30-40 min.

On normal and coarse hair

Apply 7.4 + act. 40 vol. (1 + 1,5)

on lengths and ends.

Then apply 7.4 + act.30 vol.

on new growth.

Processing time: 30-40 min.

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WHITE HAIR COVERAGE

0 – 70% white hair

desired level + act. (20-30-40vol.)

Mixing proportion 1 part of color+1,5 of activator.

 

70 – 100% white hair

Select 1 level darker than desired level + act.  20 vol.

Mixing proportion: 1 part of colour + 1,5 of activator

 

PROTECTION PROVIDER

Main active ingredients:

Dimethicone: conditioning agent.

Menthyl lactate: provides a pleasant, fresh feeling.

pH 6.4

 

Directions:

Apply directly to the hair line to prevent possible color staining of the skin.

It is advised to apply Protection Provider without gloves

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Kathy from Hairjamm assist salons through Melbourne and Victoria with in salon training. Marjorie Milner College were fortunate to have Kathy assist all the apprentices on Wednesday. For the students that were unable to attend we have outlined some of the information above from Kathy’s presentation. This theory colour workshop was for Hairdressing Apprentices and School Based Apprentices.

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